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  The Myrtle Beach KOA (613 6th Ave. S., 800/562-7790, www.myrtlebeachkoa.com), though not at all cheap ($40-50 even for tenters), offers the usual safe, dependable amenities of that well-known chain, including rental “kabins” and activities for kids.

  Willow Tree RV Resort and Campground (520 Southern Sights Dr., 843/756-4334, www.willowtreervr.com) is set inland on a well-wooded 300-acre tract with large sites well away from the sprawl and offers lakeside fishing and bike trails. In the summer high season, basic sites are $50-82, and the one- and two-bedroom cabins range $120-190.

  Food

  There are about 2,000 restaurants in the Myrtle Beach area, not counting hotel room service and buffets. You can find any dining option that floats your boat at almost any price level. Seafood, of course, is heartily recommended, but there are steak houses, rib joints, pizza places, and vegetarian restaurants galore as well. We can only explore a small fraction here, but following are some of the more unique and tasty experiences on the bustling Grand Strand.

  Food is never far away, with the biggest concentration of restaurants—including the gigantic seafood buffet places—on “Restaurant Row,” a stretch of Kings Highway/Highway 17 between Myrtle Beach and North Myrtle Beach, from about the merge of Hwy. 17 Bypass and Hwy. 17 Business on the south and the Tanger Outlets to the north.

  BREAKFAST

  Pancakes are big on the Strand, with many flapjack places open daily 24 hours to accommodate partiers and night owls. A prime purveyor of pancakes is Harry’s Breakfast Pancakes (2306 N. Kings Hwy., 843/448-8013, www.harryspancake.com, daily 5:30am-2pm, $4-10). They’re not open all day, but there’s enough time to enjoy their fluffy stacks and rich omelets.

  BARBECUE, BURGERS, AND STEAKS

  The best barbecue in town—and a delightfully low-key experience in this often too-flashy area—is at S Little Pigs Barbecue (6102 Frontage Rd., 843/692-9774, Mon.-Sat. 11am-8pm, $8-12). This is a local-heavy place dealing in no-frills pulled pork, piled high at the counter and reasonably priced with a selection of sauces. The lack of atmosphere is the atmosphere, and they prefer to let the barbecue (and the hushpuppies and onion rings) do the talking.

  Since opening 20 years ago, S Thoroughbreds (9706 N. Kings Hwy., 843/497-2636, www.thoroughbredsrestaurant.com, Sun.-Thurs. 5pm-10pm, Fri.-Sat. 5pm-11pm, $20), on the old Restaurant Row, has been considered the premier fine-dining place in Myrtle Beach, dealing in the kind of wood-heavy, clubby, Old World-meets-New World ambience you’d expect to see in Palm Beach, Florida. That said, the prices are definitely more Myrtle Beach; you can easily have a romantic dinner for two for under $100. The menu is a carnivore’s delight: Beef includes the signature prime rib, a great steak au poivre, and a nod to cowboy machismo, the 22-ounce bone-in rib eye.

  The darling of the steak-loving set is Rioz Brazilian Steakhouse (2920 Hollywood Dr., 843/839-0777, www.rioz.com, daily 4pm-10pm, $20-40). It’s not cheap—the recommended 15-item meat sampler is about $35 per person—but then again, an experience this awesome shouldn’t be cheap (a big plus is that kids under age 7 eat for free). The meats are fresh and vibrant, slow-cooked over a wood fire in the simple but succulent style typical of the gaucho churrascaria tradition. The service is widely considered to be the best in the area. But the biggest surprise may turn out to be the salad and seafood bar, which even has sushi.

  There is no dearth of places to nosh at Barefoot Landing, but meat lovers (not to mention golfers) will probably enjoy Greg Norman’s Australian Grille (4930 Kings Hwy. S., 843/361-0000, www.gregnormansaustraliangrille.com, lunch daily 11am-3pm, dinner daily 5pm-10pm, $20-30), which, despite the chain-sounding name, is the only restaurant of its kind. It’s the place to enjoy a cocktail by the lake and a premium entrée like the lobster-crusted swordfish.

  Eateries are plentiful in Myrtle Beach.

  I normally shy away from mentioning national chain-type places, but I’ll make an exception for Myrtle Beach, where you expect things to be a little cheesy. Jimmy Buffett’s Margaritaville (1114 Celebrity Circle, 843/448-5455, www.margaritavillemyrtlebeach.com, Sun.-Thurs. 11am-10pm, Fri.-Sat. 11am-midnight, $13-22) at Broadway at the Beach is widely regarded as the best single location of the national chain. The signature Cheeseburger in Paradise is the obvious big hit. You get a lot of entertainment for your money as well, with balloon-twisting performers coming to your table and a bizarre whirling “hurricane” that acts up in the main dining area every now and then. As you’d expect, the margaritas are good, if expensive.

  Many locals insist the better burger is at another Buffett-owned chain, the succinctly titled Cheeseburger in Paradise (7211 N. Kings Hwy., 843/497-3891, www.cheeseburgerinparadise.com, Sun.-Thurs. 11:30am-11pm, Fri.-Sat. 11:30am-midnight, $10-15), which offers a range of burgers on the menu with sweet potato chips on the side, all served up in a less flashy but still very boisterous atmosphere than the flagship restaurant.

  CLASSIC SOUTHERN

  If you’ve got a hankering for some spicy Cajun-Creole food, go no farther than the House of Blues (4640 U.S. 17 S., 843/272-3000, www.hob.com, Mon.-Fri. 4pm-9pm, Sat. 8am-9pm, Sun. 9am-2pm and 3pm-9pm, $10-25) at Barefoot Landing in North Myrtle Beach. With 17 similarly themed locations around North America, this particular venue deals in the same kind of retro Delta vibe, with specially commissioned folk art festooning the walls and live music cranking up at about 10pm. At your table, a gregarious server will walk you through the limited but intense menu, which includes such tasty bits as Buffalo Tenders (actually boneless chicken wings in a perfectly spicy sauce) and a couple of excellent jambalaya-type dishes. All portions are enormous and richly spiced. It’s a loud, clanging room, so keep in mind that this is less a romantic experience than an exuberant earthy one.

  A special experience at House of Blues is the weekly Gospel Brunch (Sun. 9am-2pm, $20 adults, $10 ages 6-12, free under age 6), an opportunity not only to enjoy some tasty Southern-style brunch treats like cheese grits, jambalaya, and catfish tenders but to enjoy some really rather outstanding gospel entertainment at the same time. The Gospel Brunch is served in seatings, and reservations are recommended.

  CONTINENTAL

  In Myrtle Beach it can be difficult to find a good meal that’s not fried or smothered or both. For a highbrow change of pace, try The Library (1212 N. Kings Hwy., 843/448-4527, www.thelibraryrestaurantsc.com, Mon.-Sat. 5pm-10pm, $20-50), which is hands-down the most romantic dining experience in Myrtle proper. It’s not cheap, but then again, nothing about this place is pedestrian, from the very attentive European-style service to the savvy wine list and the signature dishes (many of them prepared tableside), like she-crab soup, Caesar salads, Steak Diane, and the ultimate splurge, steak and lobster.

  Like art? Like food? Try the Collector’s Café (7726 N. Kings Hwy., 843/449-9370, www.collectorscafeandgallery.com, $10-20), which, as the name implies, is a combined gallery and dining space. Don’t be daunted by the strip mall setting—inside is a totally different ball game with a trendy open kitchen and plush, eclectic furniture awaiting you amid the original artwork. As for the menu, you may as well go for what’s widely regarded as the best single dish, the scallop cakes. Make sure you save room for dessert.

  ITALIAN

  The best-regarded Italian place in Myrtle Beach—though it could just as easily go in the Steaks category, since that’s its specialty—is Angelo’s (2011 S. Kings Hwy., 843/626-2800, www.angelosteakandpasta.com, Sun.-Thurs. 4pm-8:30pm, Fri.-Sat. 4pm-9pm, $12-25). The signature dishes are intriguingly spiced cuts of steak (request beforehand if you don’t want them seasoned), cooked medium and under for an exquisite tenderness. You can get spaghetti as a side with the steaks, or just go with the classic baked potato. Don’t forget to check out the Italian buffet, including lasagna, Italian sausage, chicken cacciatore, ravioli, and, of course, pizza.

  MEXICAN

  If you need a fix of absolutely authentic Mexican food, head straight to S La Poblanita (311 Hwy. 15, 843/448-3150, daily 11am-10pm, $7-10). Don’t be put off by
the humble exterior in a small strip mall; the food is simply amazing—and amazingly inexpensive. Eighty percent of the diners are Mexican American families, which attests to the authenticity of the cuisine. Everything on the menu is handmade, including the tortillas. The empanadas and burritos are quite simply the best I’ve eaten anywhere. Even the rice melts in your mouth. Don’t forget the Mexican Coke!

  SEAFOOD

  The grandest old Calabash seafood joint in town, Original Benjamin’s (9593 N. Kings Hwy., 843/449-0821, daily 3:30pm-10pm, buffet $25 adults, $12 children) on the old Restaurant Row is one of the more unique dining experiences in Myrtle Beach. With themed rooms overlooking the Intracoastal Waterway, including the concisely named Bus Room—yes, it has an old school bus in it—you’ll find yourself in the mood to devour copious amounts of fresh seafood at its humongous 170-item buffet line.

  Closer to Broadway at the Beach, try George’s (1401 29th Ave. N., 843/916-2278, www.captaingeorges.com, Mon.-Sat. 3pm-10pm, Sun. noon-9pm, buffet $31, $16 ages 5-12, free under age 5). Despite the usual kitschy nautical decor, this is the kind of place even locals will admit going to for the enormous seafood buffet, widely considered a cut above the norm.

  With old reliables like crab cakes and sea scallops as well as signature house dishes like pecan-encrusted grouper and stuffed flounder, you can’t go wrong at The Sea Captain’s House (3002 N. Ocean Blvd., 843/448-8082, daily 6am-10:30am, 11:30am-2:30pm, and 5pm-10pm, $10-20), one of Myrtle Beach’s better seafood restaurants. This opinion is widely held, however, so prepare to wait—often up to two hours. Luckily, you can sip a cocktail and gaze out over the Atlantic Ocean as you do so. Old hands will tell you it’s not as good as back in the day, but it’s still a cut above.

  When you’re at Ocean Drive Beach up in North Myrtle, check out another venerable old name, the Duffy Street Seafood Shack (202 Main St., 843/281-9840, www.duffyst.com, daily noon-10pm, $10). This is a humble, unkempt roadside affair dealing in the kind of down-home treats Myrtle Beach seems to love (“pigskin” shrimp, fried pickles, and the like). Overall, it’s a good place to get a tasty bite and soak in the flavor of this Cherry Grove neighborhood at the heart of the old shag culture.

  Information and Services

  The main visitors center for Myrtle Beach is the Myrtle Beach Area Chamber of Commerce and Visitor Center (1200 N. Oak St., 843/626-7444, www.visitmybeach.com, Mon.-Fri. 8:30am-5pm, Sat. 10am-2pm). There’s an Airport Welcome Center (1180 Jetport Rd., 843/626-7444) as well, and a visitors center in North Myrtle Beach, the North Myrtle Beach Chamber of Commerce and Convention & Visitors Bureau (270 U.S. 17 N., 843/281-2662, www.northmyrtlebeachchamber.com).

  The main health care facility in the Myrtle Beach area is Grand Strand Regional Medical Center (809 82nd Pkwy., 843/692-1000, www.grandstrandmed.com). Myrtle Beach is served by the Myrtle Beach Police Department (1101 N. Oak St., 843/918-1382, www.cityofmyrtlebeach.com). The separate municipality of North Myrtle Beach is served by the North Myrtle Beach Police Department (843/280-5555, www.nmb.us).

  Transportation

  GETTING THERE

  The Myrtle Beach area is served by the fast-growing Myrtle Beach International Airport (MYR, 1100 Jetport Rd., 843/448-1589, www.flymyrtlebeach.com), which hosts Allegiant (www.allegiantair.com), Delta (www.delta.com), Porter Airlines (www.flyporter.com), Spirit (www.spiritair.com), United (www.ual.com), and US Airways (www.usairways.com).

  Unusual for South Carolina, a state that is exceptionally well-served by the interstate highway system, the main route into the area is the smaller U.S. 17, which runs north-south, with a parallel business spur, from Georgetown up to the North Carolina border. The approach from the west is by U.S. 501, called Black Skimmer Trail as it approaches Myrtle Beach.

  The local Greyhound Bus Terminal (511 7th Ave. N., 843/231-2222, www.greyhound.com) is in “downtown” Myrtle Beach.

  GETTING AROUND

  In practice, the Myrtle Beach municipalities blend and blur into each other in one long sprawl parallel to the main north-south route, U.S. 17. However, always keep this in mind: Just south of Murrells Inlet, U.S. 17 divides into two distinct portions. There’s the U.S. 17 Bypass, which continues to the west of much of the coastal growth, and there’s Business U.S. 17, also known as Kings Highway, the main drag along which most key attractions and places of interest are located.

  The other key north-south route, Ocean Boulevard, runs along the beach. This is a two-lane road that can get pretty congested in the summer.

  Thankfully, area planners have provided a great safety valve for some of this often horrendous traffic. Highway 31, the Carolina Bays Parkway, begins inland from Myrtle Beach at about 16th Avenue. This wide new highway roughly parallels the Intracoastal Waterway and takes you on a straight shot, with a 65 mph speed limit, all the way to Highway 22 (the Conway Bypass) or all the way to Highway 9 at Cherry Grove Beach, the farthest extent of North Myrtle Beach. The bottom line is that if time is of the essence, you should use Highway 31 whenever possible.

  Rental Car, Taxi, and Bus

  You will need a vehicle to make the most of this area. Rental cars are available at the airport. Rental options outside the airport include Enterprise (1377 U.S. 501, 843/626-4277; 3401 U.S. 17 S., 843/361-4410, www.enterprise.com), Hertz (851 Jason Blvd., 843/839-9530, www.hertz.com), and the unique Rent-a-Wreck (901 3rd Ave. S., 843/626-9393).

  Taxi service on the Strand is plentiful but fairly expensive. Look in the local Yellow Pages for full listings; a couple of good services are Yellow Cab (917 Oak St., 843/448-5555) and Beach Checker Cab (843/272-6212) in North Myrtle.

  The area is served by the Coastal Rapid Public Transit Authority (1418 3rd Ave., 843/248-7277), which runs several bus routes up and down the Strand. Ask at a visitors center or call for a schedule.

  Bicycle

  Bicyclists in Myrtle Beach can take advantage of some completed segments of the South Carolina portion of the East Coast Greenway (www.greenway.org), which, generally speaking, is Ocean Boulevard. You can actually ride Ocean Boulevard all the way from 82nd Avenue North down to the southern city limit.

  In North Myrtle Beach, from Sea Mountain Highway in Cherry Grove, you can bike Ocean Boulevard clear down to 46th Avenue South, with a detour from 28th to 33rd Avenues. A right on 46th Avenue South takes you to Barefoot Landing. And, of course, for a scenic ride, you can pedal on the beach itself for miles. But remember: Bicycling on the sidewalk is strictly prohibited.

  As for bike rentals, try Beach Bike Shop (711 Broadway St., 843/448-5335, www.beachbikeshop.com). In North Myrtle, try Wheel Fun Rentals (91 S. Ocean Blvd., 843/280-7900, www.wheelfunrentals.com).

  Points Inland

  CONWAY

  A nice day trip west of Myrtle Beach—and a nice change from that area’s intense development—is to the charming town of Conway, just northwest of Myrtle Beach on U.S. 501 and the Waccamaw River. Founded in 1733 with the name Kingston, it originally marked the frontier of the colony. It was later renamed Conwayborough, soon shortened to Conway, in honor of local leader Robert Conway, and now serves as the seat of Horry County.

  Conway’s heyday was during Recon­struction, when it became a major trade center for timber products and naval stores from the interior. The railroad came through town in 1887 (later being extended to Myrtle Beach), and most remaining buildings date from this period or later. The most notable Conway native is perhaps an unexpected name: William Gibson, originator of the cyberpunk genre of science fiction, was born here in 1948.

  Conway is small and easily explored. Make your first stop at the Conway Visitors Center (903 3rd Ave., 843/248-1700, www.cityofconway.com, Mon.-Fri. 9am-5pm), where you can pick up maps. It also offers guided tours ($2 pp) that depart from City Hall (3rd Ave. and Main St.); call for a schedule. You can also visit the Conway Chamber of Commerce (203 Main St.) for maps and information.

  Sights

  Conway’s chief attraction is the 850-foot Riverwalk (843/248-2273, www.conwayscchamber.com, daily dawn-
dusk) along the blackwater Waccamaw River, a calming location with shops and restaurants nearby. Waterborne tours on the Kingston Lady leave from the Conway Marina at the end of the Riverwalk.

  Another key stop is the Horry County Museum (428 Main St., 843/248-1542, www.horrycountymuseum.org, Tues.-Sat. 9am-4pm, free), which tells the story of this rather large South Carolina county from prehistory to the present. It holds an annual Quilt Gala in February, which features some great regional examples of the art.

  Across from the campus of Coastal Carolina University is the circa-1972 Traveler’s Chapel, a.k.a. The Littlest Church in South Carolina (U.S. 501 and Cox Ferry Rd.). At 12 by 24 feet, it seats no more than a dozen people. Weddings are held here throughout the year. Admission is free, but donations are accepted.

  Accommodations

  The best stay in town is at the four-star Cypress Inn (16 Elm St., 843/248-8199, www.acypressinn.com, $145-235), a beautiful and well-appointed 12-room B&B right on the Waccamaw River.

  LEWIS OCEAN BAY HERITAGE PRESERVE

  The humongous (over 9,000 acres) Lewis Ocean Bay Heritage Preserve (803/734-3886, www.dnr.sc.gov, daily dawn-dusk, free) is one of the more impressive phenomena in the Palmetto State, from a naturalist’s viewpoint, made all the more special by its location a short drive from heavily developed Myrtle Beach. Managed by the state, it contains an amazing 23 Carolina bays, by far the largest concentration in South Carolina. These elliptical depressions, scattered throughout the Carolinas and all oriented in a northwest-southeast direction, are typified by a cypress-tupelo bog environment. The nearby Highway 31 is named the Carolina Bays Parkway in a nod to its neighbors. As if that weren’t enough, the preserve boasts other unique aspects as well. It has the largest concentration of Venus flytraps in the state, and it is also said to be the only place in eastern South Carolina where black bears still live in the wild.