Moon Coastal Carolinas Read online

  COASTAL CAROLINAS

  JIM MOREKIS

  Contents

  Index

  List of Maps

  Discover the Coastal Carolinas

  The Outer Banks

  North Carolina Central Coast

  Wilmington and Cape Fear

  Myrtle Beach and the Grand Strand

  Charleston

  South Carolina Lowcountry

  Background

  Essentials

  Resources

  DISCOVER the Coastal Carolinas

  Planning Your Trip

  The Best of the Coastal Carolinas

  Best Beaches

  Coastal Carolinas for Couples

  Marine Morsels

  African American Heritage

  Carolina Lighthouses

  Adventures in Nature

  From the wide, deep waterways of North Carolina on down to the South Carolina Sea Islands, there’s a shared, effortless mystique over the 500-mile stretch of Carolina coast—a sense of time standing still that is both poignant and palpable. No mere poet’s license, it’s something you feel here, whether in the bracing tang of the sea breeze or the oddly comforting whiff of pluff mud at low tide.

  The chronicle of this stretch of the Eastern seaboard includes some of the United States’ oldest and most important recorded history. The names from its past echo on today: Sir Walter Raleigh, Blackbeard, Francis Marion, Fort Sumter, the Wright Brothers.

  But outdoor recreation is by far the chief passion, almost all of it having to do with the waterways that virtually define the region. Swept by a constant, cooling breeze off the Atlantic and crisscrossed by hundreds of rivers, creeks, and marshes, the Carolina coast is an aquatic wonderland for boaters, kayakers, and naturalists alike.

  If you want family-themed vacationing, there are the commercial areas of Myrtle Beach, Hilton Head Island, or Wrightsville Beach, with their user-friendly stretches of sand and tourist infrastructures. For a more challenging journey, put the kayak on top of the car and head to the Great Dismal Swamp of North Carolina or the blackwater ACE Basin of South Carolina. For a remote, laid-back beach experience, hang out on the Outer Banks, or take a jaunt down to Edisto Island or Hunting Island and enjoy the beachfront life, South Carolina-style.

  under the Myrtle Beach pier

  Locals and visitors alike also enjoy the fruits of the sea in the fresh catch that exemplifies the coastal Carolina plate. From Elizabeth City to Charleston to Port Royal, from fried to grilled to boiled, you can be assured of a tasty nautical treat at nearly every meal—though the barbecue around here is not too shabby, either!

  Another common denominator along the Carolina coast is the people themselves. All have their distinctive identities, and they go by many names: the “wreckers” of the Outer Banks, the Down Easterners of the Core Sound, the Gullah of the South Carolina islands, even the “snowbirds” of Hilton Head. But the thread linking them all together—and infusing the atmosphere of the coastal Carolinas—is a gusto combining a gregariousness of spirit with a love of the simple pleasures of life.

  Charleston Harbor

  Arthur Ravenel Jr. Bridge in Charleston.

  shrimp trawler

  Planning Your Trip

  Where to Go

  The Outer Banks

  This windswept area includes the first English colony in America and the hiding ground of pirates and retains its poignant mystique to this day. Nags Head has a well-developed tourist infrastructure and boasts attractions like sandy Jockey’s Ridge State Park and the Wright Brothers National Memorial. But along Cape Hatteras National Seashore, the towns start seeming smaller, with Ocracoke Island, accessible only by ferry, embodying the remoteness associated with the Outer Banks. Across the sounds, the Great Dismal Swamp draws kayakers and naturalists.

  Wright Brothers National Memorial

  North Carolina Central Coast

  Beaufort (BO-furt), North Carolina—not to be confused with Beaufort (BYOO-furt), South Carolina—boasts a long pedigree and beautiful old homes and cemeteries. A burgeoning tourist hotspot, New Bern also features a large historic district and the gorgeous Tryon Palace. With many sunken ships offshore, Morehead City is a diver’s mecca, while Cape Lookout National Seashore features fantastic, uninhabited beaches and wild horses.

  Wilmington and Cape Fear

  A great blend of old and new, Wilmington, North Carolina, combines an exquisite historic district with a young, happening vibe and plenty of shopping and dining opportunities. Enjoy its beautiful homes and gardens, but don’t miss the excellently preserved World War II battleship, USS North Carolina. To the east and the south are great oceanfront recreational areas like Wrightsville Beach and Kure Beach.

  Myrtle Beach and the Grand Strand

  The 60-mile Grand Strand of South Carolina focuses on the resort and beach activity of Myrtle Beach, and to an increasing extent, North Myrtle Beach. Down the Strand are the more peaceful areas of Pawleys Island and Murrells Inlet, with the historic Georgetown area and its scenic plantations anchoring the bottom portion. Because of the Strand’s long, skinny geography, always budget more time than you think you’ll need to get around.

  Charleston

  One of America’s oldest cities and an early national center of arts and culture, Charleston’s legendary taste for the high life is matched by its forward-thinking outlook. The starting point of the Civil War is not just a city of museums resting on its historic laurels. Situated on a hallowed spit of land known as “the peninsula,” the Holy City is now a vibrant, creative hub of the New South.

  azaleas blooming in Charleston

  South Carolina Lowcountry

  The South Carolina Low-country’s mossy, laidback pace belies its former status as the heart of American plantation culture and the original cradle of secession. Today, it combines the history of Beaufort and Bluffton and the natural beauty of the ACE Basin with the resort development of Hilton Head and the relaxed beaches of Hunting Island.

  When to Go

  You can’t go wrong hitting the Carolina coast in the spring, when the azaleas are in bloom and there’s still a little dryness in the air. It is the absolute best time to visit Charleston and the Lowcountry, and this is when most love affairs with the area are born.

  While a spring visit to the Grand Strand will avoid the crowds, the heat, and the jacked-up summer hotel prices, water temperatures will still be quite chilly at this time. Ditto for the North Carolina Outer Banks.

  Memorial Day weekend is a good time to visit anywhere in the coastal Carolinas; however, the beaches will be jammed. Despite Myrtle Beach’s efforts to discourage big biker rallies during this period, there is still likely to be plenty of biker activity, which is harmless but can be intrusive.

  Summer gets a bad rap in the South. The truly oppressive heat doesn’t come until August, and the coast’s sea breeze makes it much more endurable than sweltering inland areas.

  Late summer in the coastal Carolinas means two things: humidity and hurricanes. Not until well after Labor Day will you be reasonably assured that a gathering storm will not spoil your vacation plans. To me, this is the least recommended time to visit.

  September right after Labor Day is a perfect time to hit Myrtle Beach and the Grand Strand—lodging prices are cut dramatically and the crowds are much thinner, but the beach weather remains ideal.

  My own favorite time to travel up and down the coast is late October/early November, when the kids are back in school, crowds are down, the weather is wonderful, prices are low, but there are still plenty of places open for business.

  Before You Go

  If you’re headed to the Outer Banks—or anywhere on the North Carolina coast north of Wilmington for that matter—ke
ep in mind that the wind can whip up and things can get pretty chilly pretty fast. Bring a windbreaker or sweater, even in the height of summer.

  For trips to South Carolina at almost any time of year, wear natural fabrics if at all possible. It’s likely to be hotter and more humid than where you come from, and breathable cotton on your skin will help raise your comfort level.

  Overall, dress is quite casual in the coastal Carolinas, with Charleston and Hilton Head being the most fashion-conscious areas by far. However, with the notable exception of Myrtle Beach, keep ostentatious displays of unclothed flesh to a minimum—this is still the South, after all.

  Contrary to media stereotypes, you will have access to any type of modern amenity during your trip to the coastal Carolinas. The one exception is cell phone coverage on the Outer Banks, which can get sketchy to nonexistent at times.

  The Best of the Coastal Carolinas

  From Nags Head to Hilton Head, here’s a car journey down the coast hitting all the hot spots and highlighting the region’s culture, history, natural beauty, and rich maritime legacy.

  North Carolina Coast

  DAY 1

  Begin at Nags Head on North Carolina’s Outer Banks, your home base for the next couple of days, and enjoying the beach and the key local sights, Jockey’s Ridge State Park and the Wright Brothers National Memorial.

  Nags Head, North Carolina

  DAY 2

  This morning head down to windswept Cape Hatteras National Seashore and climb the historic lighthouse. Then, in the afternoon, head to Roanoke Island’s Fort Raleigh National Historic Site. At night, perhaps take in a performance of “The Lost Colony” historical drama.

  DAY 3

  This morning enjoy the exquisite historic district in New Bern, with a visit to the gorgeous gardens at Tryon Palace. After a tasty lunch downtown, head to the ocean again and walk the waterfront at Beaufort. Don’t miss a visit to the North Carolina Maritime Museum and the Old Burying Ground. Tonight drive down to Wilmington for the first of two nights at a fine B&B, such as the Rosehill Inn.

  DAY 4

  This morning tour Wilmington’s historic homes: Bellamy Mansion, the Burgwin-Wright House, and the Zebulon Latimer House (save with a three-house ticket). After lunch, walk the decks of the USS North Carolina. Tonight have a quality meal downtown at any one of the fine eateries on and around Water Street.

  the USS North Carolina in Wilmington

  DAY 5

  After breakfast at your B&B, head out to the ocean for some fun at Wrightsville Beach. In the afternoon head south toward Myrtle Beach. Stop for fried seafood along the way at Calabash, on the border between North and South Carolina. Alternately, you could continue on to Myrtle Beach for a delightfully cheesy, utensil-free dinner show at Medieval Times at Broadway at the Beach.

  South Carolina Coast

  DAY 6

  Today is your big Myrtle Beach day. Claim your patch of sand along the miles of beaches in the morning, and after lunch visit Ripley’s Aquarium, shop at Barefoot Landing, or have a round of miniature golf. Tonight enjoy some down-home entertainment by catching a show at the Carolina Opry, quaffing an adult beverage or two at The Bowery, or perhaps learning how to do the Shag at Ocean Drive Beach.

  DAY 7

  Work your way southward with a stop at Brookgreen Gardens on the Grand Strand, having lunch at the waterfront in nearby Georgetown. This afternoon visit gorgeous Hampton Plantation, then it’s down to Charleston. After checking into your room at the Andrew Pinckney Inn, walk the French Quarter, including looks at St. Philip’s Episcopal Church and the French Huguenot Church. Enjoy a classic Charleston dinner at one of any number of amazing restaurants nearby, such as Tristan, Peninsula Grill, or Husk.

  DAY 8

  This full day in Charleston includes some shopping on King Street and a walk along the Battery and nearby Rainbow Row for a snapshot of these photogenic mansions. For an afternoon historical road trip, cross the Cooper River to Mount Pleasant, and visit Boone Hall Plantation and the nearby Charles Pinckney Historical Site. For more recent history, visit the Patriots Point Naval and Maritime Museum. Tonight eat and drink in style in the Upper King area, perhaps with dinner at La Fourchette.

  Best Beaches

  Best Scenery

  • Cape Hatteras National Seashore (The Outer Banks)

  • Sullivan’s Island (Charleston)

  • Hunting Island State Park (South Carolina Lowcountry)

  Hunting Island State Park

  Best for Families

  • Wrightsville Beach (Wilmington and Cape Fear)

  • Kure Beach (Wilmington and Cape Fear)

  • Myrtle Beach (Myrtle Beach and the Grand Strand)

  • Isle of Palms (Charleston)

  • Hilton Head Island (South Carolina Lowcountry)

  Best for Water Sports

  • Nags Head (The Outer Banks)

  • Myrtle Beach (Myrtle Beach and the Grand Strand)

  • Hilton Head Island (South Carolina Lowcountry)

  Best for Solitude

  • Cape Hatteras National Seashore (The Outer Banks)

  • Ocracoke Island (The Outer Banks)

  • Topsail Beach (Wilmington and Cape Fear)

  Most Local Character

  • Carolina Beach State Park (Wilmington and Cape Fear)

  • Edisto Beach State Park (Charleston)

  • Folly Beach (Charleston)

  Georgetown’s waterfront

  DAY 9

  You have a full array of choices for this full day in Charleston, including a ferry ride to Fort Sumter, a jaunt across the Ashley River to Kiawah Island. If it’s a weekend, you can head up to North Charleston to see the Confederate submarine CSS Hunley at the repurposed Charleston Navy Yard.

  Kiawah Island

  DAY 10

  Finish your tour by spending the morning in historic Bluffton on the relaxing May River, browsing the art galleries. Then jaunt down to Hilton Head Island to relax on the beach, with a visit to Sea Pines Forest Preserve and Harbour Town.

  Coastal Carolinas for Couples

  With lovely beaches, charming cities, and evocative historic districts, the Carolina coast offers up some ideal spots for a couples’ getaway, whatever your romantic style.

  Outdoor Romance

  Hunting Island is far more than a state park, it is also a state of mind, with beautiful, windswept beaches and an awesome view from the top of the lighthouse. Outdoor activities include kayaking the inlet where parts of Forrest Gump were filmed and bird-watching for loons, herons, egrets, and more. Share a tentsite, or hole up in one of the cabins (there’s a minimum week-long stay in high season).

  Although Myrtle Beach proper isn’t necessarily one’s first thought when one thinks of romance, Huntington Beach State Park boasts a great stretch of beach, several nature trails, and a fanciful “castle” mansion and grounds. Camp at the park, then go right across the highway to Brookgreen Gardens, America’s largest collection of outdoor sculpture, which is perfect for strolls through the various nooks and crannies on the sprawling, verdant grounds.

  City Romance

  Charleston is one of the most romantic cities in the world, so you really can’t go wrong there. Although it’s not in the center of town, one of the most romantic spots in Charleston is Middleton Place and its magnificent gardens. Couples can even stay on the grounds, at the Inn at Middleton Place, in a room with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the gardens and the Ashley River.

  For a little bit of Paris in the South, try the atmospheric French Quarter. Take a carriage ride or just enjoy the intimate streetscape. More social, young-at-heart couples will want to head to the hip Upper King area—stop at La Fourchette or 39 Rue de Jean for drinks and food.

  Charleston’s French Quarter

  Equal parts evocative antebellum seaport and trendy college town, Wilmington is also a great choice for a romantic trip. Choose from an abundance of B&Bs, like the Graystone Inn, and spend a weekend soaking in the
city’s beautiful 19th-century architecture and well-restored waterfront.

  Historical Romance

  New Bern is a handy little getaway for those who like strolling through a large and tastefully restored historic district.

  For those seeking a smaller, more poignant historic town, try Beaufort, North Carolina, which has a palpable vestige of its very old seaport past. You can rent a houseboat for the weekend and spend the entire time floating on the water. Or on land, you can stroll through the Spanish moss and live oaks in the beautiful Old Burying Ground.

  Just Us

  Of course to really get away from it all—and I mean just about all—head to the Outer Banks of North Carolina and get on a ferry to windswept, sparsely populated Ocracoke Island. If that seems like too much, you can drive to Cape Hatteras National Seashore, which also offer a sense of solitude.

  a hiking trail on Ocracoke Island

  Marine Morsels

  The Coastal Carolinas are awash, literally, in seafood. Here are some epicurean highlights for the seafood lover.