Moon Coastal Carolinas Page 16
That changed after the Civil War with the boom of nearby Conway to the west, now the seat of Horry County (pronounced “OR-ee”). As Conway’s lumber and export economy grew, a railroad spur was built to bring in lumber from the coast, much of which was owned by a single firm, the Conway Lumber Company. Lumber company employees began using the rail lines to take vacation time on the Strand, in effect becoming the first of millions of tourists to the area. At this time it was simply called “New Town,” in contrast to Conway’s “Old Town.”
In the second half of the 19th century, Civil War veteran Franklin G. Burroughs, of the Burroughs and Collins Company, which supplied lumber and turpentine to Conway business interests, sought to expand the tourism profitability of the coastal area. He died in 1897, but his heirs continued his dream, inaugurated by the opening of the Seaside Inn in 1901. The first bona fide resort came in the 1920s with the building of the Arcady resort, which included the first golf course in the area.
In 1938 Burroughs’s widow, Adeline, known locally as “Miss Addie,” was credited with giving the town its modern name, after the locally abundant wax myrtle shrub. During this time, locals on the Strand originated the shagging subculture, built around the dance of the same name and celebrated at numerous pavilions and “beach clubs.” The building of Myrtle Beach Air Force Base in 1940—now closed—brought further growth and jobs to the area.
Tourism, especially, grew apace here until Hurricane Hazel virtually wiped the slate clean in 1954. In typical Carolinian fashion, residents and landowners made lemonade out of lemons, using the hurricane’s devastation as an excuse to build even bigger resort developments, including a plethora of golf courses.
Since then, the Strand has grown to encompass about 250,000 permanent residents, with about 10 million visitors on top of that each year. A huge influx of money in the 1990s led to a higher-dollar form of development on the coast, sadly leading to the demolition of many of the old beach pavilions in favor of new attractions and massive condo high-rises.
PLANNING YOUR TIME
The most important thing to remember is that the Grand Strand is long—60 miles from one end to the other. This has real-world effects that need to be taken into account. For example, while the separate municipality of North Myrtle Beach may sound like it is right next door to Myrtle Beach proper, getting from one to the other can take half an hour even in light traffic.
Due to this geographical stretching, as well as to all the attractions, it is impossible to cover this area in a single day, and even two days is a ridiculously short amount of time. That’s probably the main reason many folks indulge in a weekly rental. Not only does it give you enough time to see everything, but it enables you to relax, slow down, and enjoy the beaches and the general laid-back attitude.
In May, Memorial Day weekend and Bike Week have traditionally signaled the beginning of the tourism season in Myrtle Beach. The busy season exactly corresponds with the hottest months of the year, July and August. This is when crowds are at their peak, restaurants are most crowded, and the two spurs of U.S. 17 are at their most gridlocked.
Springtime in Myrtle Beach is quite nice, but keep in mind that water temperatures are still chilly through April. There is almost always one last cold snap in March that augurs the spring.
Personally, I recommend hitting Myrtle Beach just as the busy season wanes, right after Labor Day. Rooms are significantly cheaper, but most everything is still fully open and adequately staffed, with the added benefit of the biggest crush of visitors being absent. Similarly, for some really inexpensive room rates, try to hit town in late February.
Winter on the Grand Strand is very slow, as befitting this very seasonal locale. Many restaurants, especially down the Strand near Murrells Inlet, close entirely through February.
ORIENTATION
Don’t get too hung up on place names around here. This part of the Strand comprises several different municipalities, from Surfside Beach to the south up to Little River near the North Carolina border, but for all intents and purposes it’s one big place all its own. As a general rule, development (read: money) is moving more quickly to the North Myrtle Beach area rather than the older Myrtle Beach proper to the south.
North Myrtle is actually a recent aggregation of several historic beachfront communities: Windy Hill, Crescent Beach, Cherry Grove, and Ocean Drive. You’ll see numerous signs announcing the entrance or exit into or out of these communities, but keep in mind you’re still technically in North Myrtle Beach.
The Grand Strand grid is based on a system of east-west avenues beginning just north of Myrtle Beach State Park. Confusingly, these are separated into “North” and “South” avenues. Perhaps even more confusing, North Myrtle Beach also uses its own distinct north-and-south avenue system, also for roads running east-west. Got it?
It goes like this: Myrtle Beach starts with 29th Avenue South at the Myrtle Beach International Airport and goes up to 1st Avenue South just past Family Kingdom Amusement Park. From here, the avenues are labeled as “North” from 1st Avenue North up to 82nd Avenue North, which concludes Myrtle Beach proper. North Myrtle Beach begins at 48th Avenue South near Barefoot Landing and goes up to Main Street (the center of the shag culture). It continues with 1st Avenue North, goes up to 24th Avenue North (Cherry Grove Beach), and finally concludes at 61st Avenue North, near the North Carolina state line.
Sights
S BROADWAY AT THE BEACH
Love it or hate it, Broadway at the Beach (1325 Celebrity Circle, 800/386-4662, www.broadwayatthebeach.com, summer daily 10am-11pm, winter daily 10am-6pm), between 21st and 29th Avenues, is one of Myrtle’s biggest and flashiest attractions—which is saying a lot. First opened in the late 1990s and expanded significantly since then, this collection of three hotels, over two dozen restaurants, about 50 shops, and a dozen kid-oriented activities sprawls over 350 acres with several other major attractions, restaurants, and clubs (such as the Hard Rock Café and Planet Hollywood) on its periphery.
Broadway at the Beach
Just like the Magic Kingdom that many of Myrtle’s attractions seek to emulate, Broadway at the Beach has at its center a large lagoon, around which everything else is situated. Needless to say, there’s also a massive parking lot. Activity goes on all day and well into the wee hours, with the weekly Tuesday-night fireworks a big draw. While there’s plenty to do, what with the great shops, tasty treats, and fun piped-in music following you everywhere, it’s also fun just to walk around.
The main complaint about Broadway at the Beach has to do with the price of the various attractions within the park, some of which are fairly small-scale. Indeed, the quality of the attractions within Broadway at the Beach varies, and much depends on what floats your boat, but you can still find plenty to enjoy as long as you know the scoop ahead of time. Here’s a quick guide to the specific attractions.
The biggest attraction at Broadway—and it’s really big—is Wonderworks (1313 Celebrity Circle, 843/626-9962, www.wonderworksonline.com, Sun.-Thurs. 10am-8pm, Fri.-Sat. 10am-9pm, $23 adults, $15 children). You can’t miss it—look for the thing that looks exactly like a massive, life-size, crumbling, upside-down creepy mansion. Inside you’ll find a wide and quite varied assortment of interactive experiences designed to let you know what it’s like to be upside down, or on a bed of nails, or in a hurricane, or freezing after the Titanic sank, and things of that nature. Think Ripley’s Believe It or Not updated for a modern age, complete with laser tag.
Adjacent to the main Wonderworks building is the Soar and Explore Zipline and Ropes Course (daily noon-dusk, hours vary seasonally, zipline $19.95, ropes course $11.99, combo $26.99), where you can strap in and zip 1,000 feet overwater across the large lagoon around which Broadway at the Beach is constructed.
Harry Potter fans will likely enjoy MagiQuest (1185 Celebrity Circle, 843/913-9460, www.magiquest.com, daily 10am-9:30pm, $26-40), which takes you on a 90-minute journey to find clues that lead to hidden treasure. Folks of an old
er generation will find it a surprisingly high-tech experience for something dealing with the ancient arts of wizardry—including an orientation session and the programmable wands that are indispensable to the quest. But don’t worry; the young ones will get it.
MagiQuest has a certain addictive quality, and many people opt to go back for more (additional quests cost less) after their usually confusing, full-price first experience. Note that there’s an intro game you can play online, which might help you get acquainted. Like many attractions at Myrtle Beach, this one can get very crowded, which can impede the quality of your experience (Whose wand uncovered the clue? Who knows?). Try to go right when it opens.
Similarly medieval—and right nearby—is Medieval Times (2904 Fantasy Way, 843/236-4635, www.medievaltimes.com, $51 adults, $31 ages 3-12, free under age 3), a combination dinner theater and medieval tournament reenactment. If the ticket prices sound high, keep in mind you’re getting a three-course meal and a professional show done largely on horseback. Ask around for coupons to get a discount.
Now that almost all of the old-fashioned amusement parks at Myrtle Beach are gone, victims of “modernization,” you can find a facsimile of sorts at Pavilion Nostalgia Park (843/913-9400, www.pavilionnostalgiapark.com, summer daily 11am-11pm, hours vary in other seasons, rides $3 each), which seeks to simulate the days of Myrtle gone by.
Of course, nowhere in Myrtle is really complete without miniature golf, and Broadway at the Beach’s version is Dragon’s Lair Fantasy Golf (1197 Celebrity Circle, 843/913-9301, $9), with two medieval-themed 18-hole courses boasting a fire-breathing dragon.
Ripley’s Aquarium
If you’ve been to Boston’s New England Aquarium, don’t expect something similar at Ripley’s Aquarium (1110 Celebrity Circle, 800/734-8888, www.ripleysaquarium.com, Sun.-Thurs. 9am-9pm, Fri.-Sat. 9am-10pm, $22 adults, $11 ages 6-11, $4 ages 2-5, free under age 2) at Broadway at the Beach. This is a smaller but quite delightful aquarium built primarily for entertainment purposes rather than education. Calming music plays throughout, and a moving sidewalk takes you around and under a huge main tank filled with various marine creatures. There’s even the requisite stingray-petting touch tank.
Ripley’s Aquarium
You might see the garish billboards for the aquarium up and down U.S. 17, featuring massive sharks baring rows of scary teeth. But don’t expect an over-the-top shark exhibit—the truth is that most of the sharks in the aquarium are smaller and much more peaceful.
Broadway Grand Prix
Just outside Broadway at the Beach you’ll find the Broadway Grand Prix (1820 21st Ave. N., 843/839-4080, www.broadwaygrandprix.com, summer daily 10am-midnight, shorter hours in other seasons, from $20), where can you speed around in little go-karts on your choice of seven tracks, organized according to speed, age, and skill level. This being Myrtle Beach, there’s other family-oriented entertainment offered here, including a rock-climbing wall and, of course, miniature golf.
Myrtle Waves Water Park
Billed as South Carolina’s largest water park, Myrtle Waves Water Park (U.S. 17 Bypass and 10th Ave. N., 843/913-9260, www.myrtlewaves.com, 10am-dusk May-Labor Day, $25 age 7 and over, $23 ages 3-6, free under age 3) is right across the street from Broadway at the Beach, covers 20 acres, and features all kinds of safe, fun “rides,” such as the Ocean in Motion Wave Pool, the Layzee River, and the Saturation Station, where a huge water volcano absolutely soaks everybody in proximity every five minutes or so. That’s just to name a few.
As you would expect, there are plenty of lifeguards on hand at all the rides. Food is plentiful if unremarkable, and there are shaded areas for the less adventurous to chill while the kids splash around. With one admission price covering all rides all day, this is one of the better deals in Myrtle Beach, which has more than its share of confusingly (and occasionally exorbitantly) priced attractions.
MYRTLE BEACH BOARDWALK AND PROMENADE
The Boardwalk (www.visitmyrtlebeach.com, daily 24 hours, free) is the new pride of old Myrtle, greatly improving civic life and morale. The fun, meandering 1.2-mile jaunt from the 2nd Avenue Pier to the 14th Avenue Pier is built in three distinct sections, not only leading you through the commercial areas of the waterfront, but also providing easy pedestrian beach access. One section provides a nice peaceful walking experience amid the dune-scape.
Myrtle Beach Boardwalk
Skywheel
You can’t miss spotting the Skywheel (1110 N. Ocean Blvd., 843/839-9200, http://myrtlebeachskywheel.com, summer daily noon-midnight, $13 adults, $9 children), a huge Ferris wheel dominating the skyline at the Boardwalk. The cars are family-size and fully enclosed, and offer a great view of the ocean and surrounding area during the approximately 10-minute, three-rotation trip.
the Skywheel at the Boardwalk
S BAREFOOT LANDING
Before the arrival of Broadway at the Beach was the Strand’s original high-concept retail and dining complex, Barefoot Landing (4898 U.S. 17 S., 843/272-8349, www.bflanding.com, hours vary). It’s less flashy on the surface and certainly more tasteful, but just as commercial.
The centerpiece of the two-decade-old entertainment and shopping complex is The Alabama Theatre (4750 U.S. 17 S., 843/272-5758, www.alabama-theatre.com, ticket prices vary), a project of the famed country-and-western band of the same name, who despite their eponymous roots actually got their start gigging in juke joints in the Grand Strand. A stone’s throw away is the House of Blues (4640 U.S. 17 S., 843/272-3000, www.hob.com, ticket prices vary), bringing in name acts on an almost nightly basis as well as diners to its excellent restaurant. On some nights you can pose for a picture with a real live tiger cub on your lap at T.I.G.E.R.S. Preservation Station (843/361-4552, www.tigerfriends.com, hours vary, free). Shopping is mostly the name of the game here, though.
Alligator Adventure
One of the most popular attractions within Barefoot Landing is Alligator Adventure (843/361-0789, www.alligatoradventure.com, daily 9am-7pm, $21.99 adults, $16.99 ages 4-12, free under age 4). They have hundreds of alligators, yes, but also plenty of turtles, tortoises, snakes, and birds. The otters are a big hit as well. The highlight, though, comes during the daily alligator feedings, when you get a chance to see the real power and barely controlled aggression of these magnificent indigenous beasts. Keep in mind that due to the cold-blooded reptiles’ dormant winter nature, the feedings are not held in the colder months.
Alligator Adventure
CHILDREN’S MUSEUM OF SOUTH CAROLINA
A less-expensive form of entertainment with an added educational component at Myrtle is the Children’s Museum of South Carolina (2501 N. Kings Hwy., 843/946-9469, www.cmsckids.org, summer Mon.-Sat. 9am-5pm, Sun. noon-5pm, $8). This facility tries hard to compete with the splashier attractions in town but still manages to keep a reasonably strong educational focus with programs like “Crime Lab Chemistry,” “World of Art,” and “Space Adventures.”
FAMILY KINGDOM AMUSEMENT AND WATER PARK
For a taste of old-time beachfront amusement park fun, try the Family Kingdom (300 4th Ave. S., 843/626-3471, www.family-kingdom.com, free admission, cost of rides varies) overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. It boasts several good old-school rides, such as the Sling Shot, the Yo-Yo, and everyone’s favorite, the wooden Swamp Fox roller coaster with a crazy 110-foot free fall. The attached water park, though not a match to the one at Broadway at the Beach, is a lot of fun, with the requisite slides and a long “lazy river” floating ride.
As Family Kingdom’s marketing is quick to point out, one of the big attractions here is the fact that you can look out over the beach itself. I think one of the best things is that there is no admission charge—you pay by the ride (although all-inclusive wristbands are available starting at $27). This means parents and grandparents without the stomach for the rides don’t have to pay through the nose just to chauffeur the little ones who do.
RIPLEY’S BELIEVE IT OR NOT!
Distinct in all but name from
Ripley’s Aquarium at Broadway at the Beach, this combo attraction down in the older area of Myrtle Beach—but very close to the brand-new Boardwalk—features several separate, though more or less adjacent, offerings from the venerable Ripley’s franchise.
The Ripley’s Believe It or Not! Odditorium (901 N. Ocean Blvd., 843/448-2331, www.ripleys.com, Sun.-Thurs. 10am-10pm, Fri.-Sat. 10am-11pm, $15 adults, $10 ages 6-11, free under age 6) is a repository of strange artifacts from around the world, updated with video and computer graphics for the new generation. It’s fun and easy and takes no more than a half hour.
Ripley’s Believe It or Not! Odditorium
Ripley’s Haunted Adventure (915 N. Ocean Blvd., 843/448-2331, www.ripleys.com, Sun.-Thurs. noon-10pm, Fri.-Sat. noon-11pm, $15 adults, $10 ages 6-11, free under age 6) is a sort of scaled-down version of Disney’s famous Haunted House ride, with live actors scaring you through three floors.
Ripley’s Moving Theater (917 N. Ocean Blvd., 843/448-2331, www.ripleys.com, Sun.-Thurs. 10am-10pm, Fri.-Sat. 10am-11pm, $15 adults, $10 ages 6-11, free under age 6) is a combined ride and movie theater featuring two motion-oriented films screened on a self-contained human conveyor belt, with a sort of kinetic IMAX effect.